How to Teach Your Dog to Lie Down: A Step-by-Step Training Guide🐾
When you picture a well-behaved dog relaxing at your feet in a café, calmly waiting at the vet, or politely settling while guests arrive — chances are, they’re in a “down” position. Teaching your dog to lie down on cue isn’t just useful — it’s foundational. A reliable “down” helps dogs develop emotional regulation, impulse control, and a sense of stillness in both calm and high-stimulation environments.
🧠 Why “Down” Is More Challenging Than “Sit”
Many dogs learn to sit quickly, but “down” asks for much more vulnerability — both physically and emotionally. Sitting keeps dogs upright, alert, and close to their human’s face, ready to spring into action. But lying down means:
Creating distance from you
Entering a more exposed position (in nature, lying down can be risky for prey animals)
Letting go of control in stimulating environments
That’s why even the most food-motivated pups can hesitate when learning to lie down, especially in new or distracting settings.
At home, you may find that your dog easily performs the “down” cue. But out in the real world — on a walk, at a dog-friendly restaurant, or in a training class — their confidence may shrink. That’s completely normal. This is where proofing comes in, and we'll walk you through how to navigate that process step by step.
🔍 What Your Dog’s “Down” Position Tells You
Not all downs are created equal and observing how your dog lies down can give you insight into how relaxed or on edge they are.
🧘♀️ Hip-Roll (Relaxed Down)
If your dog flops onto one hip with their legs angled to the side, it’s a sign they’re:
Truly relaxed
Feeling safe and calm
Likely to stay in that position longer without needing redirection
This is the body language we aim to see more frequently as training progresses and trust deepens.
🐱 Sphinx Position (Ready/Alert Down)
Front legs are straight, hind legs tucked underneath, head often lifted. This posture tells us your dog is:
Compliant but still on alert
Ready to spring up at a moment’s notice
Still processing their environment or unsure about what’s next
This position is common in new places or early training stages. It still “counts,” but over time, you’ll want to see them shift into the hip-roll more often — especially during long-duration downs.
💡 Real-Life Applications of “Down”
A reliable “down” can be a powerful tool in real-world situations:
At cafés or patios, helping your dog settle at your feet while you enjoy a meal
During vet visits to reduce pacing or anxiety
As a management cue when guests arrive at your door
To interrupt and redirect reactivity or impulsive behavior in public spaces
🔄 “Down” Supports Nervous System Regulation
Teaching a dog to lie down doesn’t just help with behavior — it helps with their nervous system health. The “down” cue encourages a shift from the sympathetic state (fight or flight) into the parasympathetic state (rest and digest). That’s why many dogs yawn, sigh, or settle deeper after a few repetitions. With practice, “down” becomes a bridge to stillness and recovery.
🐕🦺 When to Reassess: Physical Discomfort or Environmental Sensitivity
If your dog seems particularly resistant to lying down, consider:
Joint or hip discomfort
Slippery floors, unstable footing, or overly hot/cold surfaces
A past experience that made the position feel unsafe
Always train on comfortable surfaces (like rugs or mats) and be patient — especially with older dogs or those with uncertain backgrounds.
🍗 Reinforcement Matters: How You Reward Affects Behavior
To encourage your dog to stay down longer:
Mark and reward immediately when their elbows and hips hit the ground
Deliver the treat low, between their paws, to discourage popping up
Use a mix of food, verbal praise, or soft touch based on your dog’s motivation
Want to keep your dog focused in public?
Consider using high-value treats like these training treats during the early stages of training.
Heads up: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase something I’ve shared, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). I only recommend tools and products I personally use or love. Read my full disclaimer here
🥩 Step 1: Teaching the “Down” with a Food Lure
In this first stage, you're showing your dog what the “down” behavior looks like by luring them into the position using a treat. Think of the treat as a magnet — your dog’s nose should stay glued to it as you guide them into a full down.
🔧 What You’ll Need:
Small, high-value treats (like soft chicken, liver, or cheese)
A calm environment with minimal distractions
Optional: a treat pouch or training mat for comfort
✅ Check out our blog on Best Training Treats for Dogs to help you choose the right rewards for your dog’s motivation level
🐶 Instructions:
Hold a treat in your closed hand and bring it just in front of your dog’s nose so they can sniff or lick it.
Maintain full contact the entire time. Your dog should stay actively engaged — licking, sniffing, or nosing your hand as you move. If they lose interest, you may be moving too quickly or the treat may not be valuable enough.
Slowly lower your hand straight down toward the ground, keeping it close to your dog’s nose.
As your dog’s head lowers, gently pull the treat forward along the floor (or slightly between their front legs) to encourage their body to follow — front legs sliding forward, hips eventually dropping.
As soon as your dog’s elbows and rear touch the ground, mark the behavior with “Yes!” and deliver the treat.
Repeat until your dog is following the lure into a full down consistently. Once they can easily and quickly do 5–6 repetitions in a row, you’re ready to move on.
🔁 If Your Dog Struggles:
Reward smaller steps (head dip, crouch, partial lower) to build momentum
Slow down your hand movement — rushing can break the connection
Try softer treats or train on a textured surface for more comfort
🧠 Trainer Tip:
Avoid pushing your dog’s body down — this can feel threatening or uncomfortable and may create resistance. Let the dog choose the position with your guidance and a magnetic treat trail.
📦 Product Pick:
Try soft, pea-sized treats like Zuke’s Mini Naturals or Wellness Soft Puppy Bites — perfect for shaping behaviors without overfeeding. Make sure to break up each treat into tiny small amounts for each reward.
✋ Step 2: Transition the Lure into a Hand Signal
Once your dog can follow the food lure into a full down consistently, it’s time to begin fading the visible treat and converting that movement into a hand signal. This teaches your dog to respond to your body language, not just food in hand.
🐶 Instructions:
Start with the treat hidden in your opposite hand or stashed in a treat pouch behind your back.
Use your free hand to mimic the exact same motion you used with the food lure — slow, smooth, and deliberate.
If your dog lies down in response to the hand motion, mark with “Yes!” and reward them from your other hand.
Repeat several times until your dog begins responding to the hand signal alone, without hesitation.
Begin gradually reducing the size of the hand movement. Instead of reaching all the way to the floor, shorten the motion over time so it becomes a subtle downward gesture.
Practice in short, focused sessions — ideally 3–5 minutes, 1–2 times per day.
🔁 If Your Dog Hesitates:
You may need to go back to the food lure briefly, then fade again
Practice in the same spot each time to build confidence
Make sure your signal is consistent — same hand, angle, and speed
🧠 Trainer Tip:
The most common mistake in this phase is changing the hand motion too quickly. Make your hand signal identical to the food lure until your dog has formed the mental link. Then, fade gradually.
📌 Pro Tip: Reward your dog in place while they’re still lying down — this reinforces the behavior and prevents them from popping up between reps.
🗣️ Step 3: Add the Verbal Cue “Down”
Once your dog is consistently lying down with the hand signal alone, it’s time to add a verbal cue — so your dog begins to associate the word “down” with the action of lying down, even without a hand motion.
🐶 Instructions:
Say “Down” once, in a calm, clear voice. Avoid repeating the word or saying it with frustration.
Wait 2–3 seconds without doing anything. Give your dog a moment to process the cue.
If your dog lies down, mark with “Yes!” and reward generously.
If your dog doesn’t respond, use your hand signal as a backup — then reward and try again on the next repetition.
Repeat this pairing: verbal cue → brief pause → hand signal → reward.
After several successful rounds, your dog will begin responding to the verbal cue alone.
🔁 If Your Dog Ignores the Cue:
Don’t repeat the word “down” multiple times — it waters down the meaning
Instead, go back to the hand signal, reward, and try again
It may take several short sessions before the word clicks — be patient!
🧠 Trainer Tip:
Your timing is everything here. Say the word just before your dog performs the behavior — not while or after. Over time, the verbal cue becomes a predictor, not a reaction.
📦 If you're practicing outside or in a group class, use high-value training treats and a treat pouch that lets you deliver rewards instantly without fumbling.
⏳ Step 4: Add Duration to Your Dog’s “Down”
Now that your dog understands how to lie down, the next step is to help them stay in that position longer. Without adding duration, many dogs will pop right back up after one treat — assuming their job is done. Teaching your dog to hold the down builds patience, calmness, and long-term usefulness in real-life situations.
🐶 Instructions:
Cue your dog to lie down using your hand signal or verbal cue.
Wait 1–2 seconds with your dog in the down position, then mark (“Yes!”) and deliver a treat at their level — right between their paws or swiftly to their mouth.
Repeat the process, spacing the next treat out by 3–4 seconds, then 5–6 seconds, and so on.
If your dog remains in the down calmly, continue feeding in place using calm energy and low-positioned rewards.
If they pop up early, simply reset — no scolding, just another chance to try.
🍗 Reward Strategy:
Use multiple small treats spaced out over time, not just one.
Deliver the treat quickly and at ground level to prevent your dog from standing up or reaching.
For puppies or highly distracted dogs, start with a faster reward rate (every 1–2 seconds) and gradually stretch the time between treats as your dog gains focus and control.
🎯 Goal:
Teach your dog that staying in the down position earns continued rewards — not just a single payoff. This builds duration naturally without pressure or correction.
🧠 Trainer Tip:
Use a verbal release cue like “Okay” or “Free” when you're ready for your dog to get up. This helps them learn that you end the down, not them.
🌍 Step 5: Proof the “Down” in Real-Life Environments
Your dog may have mastered “down” in your living room — but true reliability means they can respond even when the world is distracting. This step, called proofing, helps your dog generalize the cue so it works in any setting: the vet, a sidewalk café, the pet store, or your front porch during rush hour.
🐶 Instructions:
Start by practicing “down” in a new, low-distraction location — such as the backyard or driveway.
Use your hand signal and/or verbal cue, and be ready to go back to food luring if needed.
(It’s normal for dogs to need reminders in new places!)Reinforce heavily in these new settings. Bring extra-high-value treats to boost motivation.
Gradually increase distractions:
Try practicing while someone walks by
Add gentle background noise (TV, wind chimes, etc.)
Introduce mild movement like pacing nearby or shifting your weight
Practice short, successful reps and give your dog plenty of praise and rest breaks.
Once your dog can lie down in several environments, begin to increase duration (how long they stay down) and distance (you stepping away).
🔁 If Your Dog Struggles:
Go back to Step 1 (food lure) or Step 2 (hand signal only)
Lower the challenge by moving to a slightly quieter spot
End on a success, even if it’s a small one
🧠 Trainer Tip:
Don’t treat “down” as an all-or-nothing cue in new places. If your dog tries or offers pieces of the behavior, reward that effort and build from there. Confidence grows through small wins, not just perfect reps.
📦 Product Suggestion: Bring a foldable training mat or familiar towel to help your dog feel anchored in unfamiliar spaces — try my favorite travel dog mat for training
🛠️ Troubleshooting the “Down” Cue: Common Challenges & What to Do
Even with clear steps and great treats, some dogs hit bumps in the road when learning to lie down. These are the most common issues — and exactly how to troubleshoot them like a pro.
❌ My Dog Won’t Lie Down Even with These Steps
This usually means:
The lure is moving too fast
The treat isn’t valuable enough
The surface is uncomfortable or slippery
Your dog may be anxious or physically uncomfortable
✅ Try This:
Slow down your lure and move in smaller steps
Switch to a soft, smelly, high-value treat your dog really loves
Practice on a rug, yoga mat, or non-slip surface
Reward small approximations (head dip, crouch) and build gradually
❌ My Dog Struggles to Get Into the Down Position
Some dogs — especially puppies, large breeds, or those new to structured training — may have trouble figuring out how to physically get their body into the down position. They might hover, pace, or default to sitting when asked to lie down.
✅ Try This: The “Bridge” Method
This clever trick helps guide your dog into the down posture using your own body as a physical framework.
How it works:
Sit on the ground or a low chair and bend one knee upward to form a low arch — like a little tunnel or bridge.
Hold a treat in your hand and lure your dog under your leg, starting at nose level.
To reach the treat, your dog will naturally need to crouch down or lie flat as they pass under your leg.
The moment their elbows and hips hit the floor, mark with “Yes!” and deliver the treat under the bridge.
Repeat this several times until they’re confidently sliding into the down position.
Gradually raise your leg higher over multiple sessions until the physical bridge isn’t needed — and eventually remove it altogether.
🎯 Why it works:
The Bridge method helps dogs associate going under and down with a natural, fluid movement — bypassing the mental block some dogs experience when asked to lie down in open space.
🧠 Trainer Tip:
This technique is especially helpful for dogs who are uncomfortable on slick floors or confused by standard luring.
It is also important to determine if your dog is suffering from any underlying medical conditions that may make physically laying down uncomfortable.
❌ My Dog Pops Up Immediately After Lying Down
This is one of the most common early struggles, especially for energetic or curious dogs. It usually happens when:
The treat is delivered too high or too late, encouraging the dog to pop up
Your dog hasn’t learned that “down” means stay in that position — go back to step 3.
There’s too much environmental stimulation or the session is running too long
They’ve learned a pattern of one treat = done
✅ Try This:
Deliver the reward low and between their front paws, not above their head — this encourages your dog to remain down while eating.
Space out multiple treats while your dog is lying down.
This technique rewards duration — helping your dog learn that staying in the down earns more rewards over time, not just a single quick payoff.Think of it like “feeding the position” — give 2–3 small treats in succession (3–5 seconds apart) while your dog holds the down. Vary the timing to keep them guessing.
If your dog pops up before you’ve released them, simply reset calmly — don’t reward, but don’t scold either. Try again and reward earlier in the next repetition.
🎯 Goal:
Teach your dog that remaining in the down position may lead to more treats, while popping up ends the opportunity.
❌ My Dog Only Lies Down at Home
If your dog ignores the cue outside or in public, it means:
The behavior hasn’t been proofed in new settings
The environment is too stimulating
You may need to go back to easier steps in that context
✅ Try This:
Use your food lure again when in a new location
Keep sessions short and reinforce generously
Reward even partial effort to rebuild confidence
❌ My Dog Gets Frustrated or Starts Barking
This usually means your dog is confused, overwhelmed, or unsure how to earn the reward.
✅ Try This:
Lower your criteria — reward smaller steps
Use a cheerful tone and keep sessions short and playful
End on a success and give your dog a break to reset
✅ Final Recap: Building a Reliable “Down” Cue
Teaching your dog to lie down is one of the most valuable skills in your training toolkit — whether you’re working with a brand-new puppy or a reactive adult dog who needs help settling in the real world.
Here’s a quick summary of the process:
🔁 Training Progression Recap:
Start with a food lure — help your dog understand what you’re asking
Fade the lure into a hand signal — so they don’t rely on food in your hand
Add the verbal cue “Down” once the behavior is predictable
Reward duration and troubleshoot with confidence
Proof the cue in new environments and around distractions
With consistency, clarity, and plenty of positive reinforcement, your dog will begin to lie down calmly and confidently anywhere — at home, on walks, in public spaces, and during moments of overwhelm.
📚 Keep Learning:
Want to build on this skill? Check out these related guides:
🛋️ How to Teach “Place” — the perfect companion to “down”
🦴 Training Treats We Recommend — choosing the right reward makes all the difference
🚫 Jumping 101 — stop the bounce and build polite greetings
🧠 Enrichment Toys for Mental Stimulation — keeping your dog’s brain busy
🐾 Need Personalized Support?
Whether you're troubleshooting something specific or want help creating a consistent training plan, we’re here to help.
👉 Book a private session or check out our online programs at Channeled Canine Coaching.
We’d love to help you and your dog build trust, calmness, and confidence — one cue at a time.
💬 We'd Love to Hear From You!
Have you tried teaching your dog the “down” cue?
What worked well — and where did your pup struggle?
👇 Leave a comment below and let us know:
Your dog’s name and breed
How training is going
Any questions or wins you'd like to share!
We read every comment and love supporting our readers and clients through their training journeys. ✨
About the Author
Jackie Audette is the founder and head trainer at Channeled Canine Coaching based out of Alpharetta, GA, and virtually servicing clients worldwide. She is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA) and a Certified Guide Dog Mobility Instructor (GDMI), with over a decade of experience working with pet dogs, service dogs, and complex behavior cases. Jackie holds a bachelors degree in Animal Science and specializes in modern, reward-based training that builds trust and real-life results.
