Crate Training: Building Calm, Confidence, and Structure from Day One
A Retriever mix patiently waits at the entrance of his kennel while his owner opens the door.
Why Crate Training Isn’t Cruel—It’s Foundational
Crate training often gets a bad rap—especially from well-meaning dog parents who worry it feels too much like “locking their puppy up.” But when introduced properly, a crate becomes one of the most important tools in your puppy-raising toolbox.
So what is crate training, really?
It’s the process of helping your dog see the crate as a safe, familiar place to rest, reset, and relax. It creates structure in their day, teaches bladder control, and sets the stage for calm independence—especially during critical housebreaking months.
Think of the crate like a toddler’s crib. It’s not a punishment. It’s a cozy boundary that keeps your puppy safe while teaching them when it’s time to rest, settle down, or take a break from the chaos of the day.
In this guide, we’ll walk through everything you need to know about successful crate training—from choosing the right size and setup to solving barking, accidents, or escape attempts. Whether you’re raising a brand-new puppy or reintroducing structure to an older dog, this post will help you create a crate routine that feels good for both of you.
🛠️ Types of Crates: Which One’s Right for Your Dog?
Before we talk crate training strategy, let’s make sure you’ve got the right crate for your puppy’s needs and lifestyle. Not all crates are created equal, and the type you choose can make a big difference in your dog’s comfort, your convenience, and your training success.
Here’s a breakdown of the most common types:
✅ 1. Wire Crates
These are the most common and versatile crates—and my go-to for most puppies.
Why I Like Them:
They’re adjustable, collapsible, and come with divider panels so you can resize the space as your puppy grows (critical for housebreaking).Bonus: Great airflow and visibility for dogs who like to see what’s going on.
Watch Out For: Some dogs chew the tray or try to nudge their way out. Make sure it latches securely.
👉 Favorite Double Door Wire Crate with Divider
✅ 2. Plastic (Airline-Style) Crates
These crates are more enclosed and are often used for travel, but they work well for dogs who prefer more of a den-like feel.
Why I Like Them:
Solid sides help reduce stimulation—perfect for anxious puppies or nighttime crate training.Bonus: Safe for air travel if needed later on.
Watch Out For: Not adjustable for growing puppies or breathable as wire crates. Some are bulky for home use.
👉 Favorite Plastic Airline Crate for Home-Use
✅ 3. Heavy-Duty Crates (for Escape Artists)
Some dogs are just... determined. If your pup has Houdini tendencies or destroys standard crates, a high-durability option is worth it.
Why I Like Them:
Designed to prevent escapes and withstand strong chewers.Bonus: Great peace of mind if you have a destructive dog or high separation anxiety.
Watch Out For: Price tag—these are an investment. Use only if needed.
👉 Crates for moderate escape artists
👉 Crates for extreme escape artists
✅ 4. Furniture-Style Crates
These are the Pinterest-worthy wooden crates that double as side tables. Aesthetically pleasing? Absolutely. Practical for puppies? Sometimes.
Why I Like Them:
They blend into your space and look nice in main living areas.Bonus: Great for older, crate-trained dogs or dogs with minimal supervision needs.
Watch Out For: Many don’t come with dividers or are made of materials that are easy to chew. Not ideal for dogs still in the housebreaking or destructive phase.
👉 Stylish crate for a single dog
👉 Spacious double crate, or remove divider for single dog
✅ 5. Soft-Sided or Travel Crates
These are collapsible, lightweight crates meant for travel or occasional use—not for active puppies who are still learning the rules.
Why I Like Them:
Easy to take on the go. Great for vet visits or calm adult dogs.Watch Out For: Puppies can chew through them or collapse them from the inside. Not ideal for daily crate training. Mesh walls can be easily ripped or chewed. Best for supervised confinement.
👉 Favorite soft-sided travel crate
Trainer Tip: If you’re unsure where to start, go with a wire crate that has a divider. It’s affordable, flexible, and works for most setups—plus you can always upgrade later once your dog’s habits are more predictable.
Heads up: This post may contain affiliate links. If you purchase something I’ve shared, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). I only recommend tools and products I personally use or love. Read my full disclaimer here
📏 Choosing the Right Crate Size
When it comes to crate training, size matters—big time. Too small, and your puppy will be uncomfortable. Too big, and your carefully crafted housebreaking plan might go straight out the window.
Here’s how to get it just right.
✅ The Housebreaking Sweet Spot
For puppies who are still learning to hold it, the crate should be just big enough for them to:
Stand up fully
Turn around comfortably
Lay down flat with their legs tucked under them
But no extra room beyond that. Why? Because dogs instinctively avoid going to the bathroom where they sleep. If there’s a spacious corner to potty in and another clean corner to curl up in, they’ll learn to do both—inside the crate.
🧠 Movement = Potty Trigger
Another reason for a properly sized crate? Too much movement stimulates the urge to go. Puppies are more likely to need to relieve themselves when they pace, shift around, or roll around in a too-roomy crate. Limiting their movement during crate time helps them hold it longer and build internal control.
🛠️ Divider Panels: A Must-Have for Growing Puppies
If you're crate training a young pup, a crate with a divider panel is your best friend. It lets you start small and expand the space gradually as your puppy grows—without having to buy multiple crates.
👉 Favorite wire crate with divider panel
🐶 What About Adult Dogs?
Once a dog is fully housebroken and past the chewing stage, you can size up. A bigger crate can give adult dogs more room to stretch out or enjoy a comfy bed. If your dog can hold it for long stretches and settles well, go ahead and offer a roomier setup.
Trainer Tip: If your puppy is having accidents in the crate, always re-check:
Crate size (is there too much room?)
Potty schedule (did they actually go before going in?)
Bedding (are they peeing on it and pushing it aside?)
A crate that fits well sets the stage for solid habits—and faster success.
🏠 Crate Placement & Crate Covers: Creating a Safe, Calming Space
Once you’ve got the right crate and the right size, the next step is deciding where to put it—and how to make it feel like a true den, not a punishment box.
🛋️ Where Should the Crate Go?
Ideally, your puppy’s crate should be in a central area of the home—somewhere they can still feel part of the action but not overwhelmed.
During the day: Living room, family room, or office area
At night: Consider having a second crate in the bedroom or move the crate close to your bed for the first few weeks
💡 Why it matters: Puppies are social animals. If they feel isolated, they’re more likely to cry, panic, or associate the crate with loneliness. The more you help the crate feel like a normal part of family life, the faster they’ll relax in it.
🛌 Should I Cover the Crate?
Yes—fo r many puppies, crate covers help tremendously. Covering the crate creates a cozy, den-like environment that supports rest and reduces visual stimulation.
It’s especially helpful for anxious or easily distracted dogs
Use a breathable crate cover or even a light blanket (just make sure it’s secure and safe)
Don’t cover the crate if your puppy chews or pulls fabric inside
Only cover part of the crate so they can retreat, but still have a way to look out.
👉 Favorite Budget Friendly Crate Cover
👉Favorite Chew Resistant Crate Cover
Trainer Tip: When introducing crate covers, do it gradually. Let your puppy see the cover going on, then toss in a treat or toy to build a positive association. Some dogs like one or two sides left uncovered to peek out—experiment and observe.
🐾 Multiple Crates?
If you’re home a lot during the day or have a multi-level house, having more than one crate can be incredibly helpful. One in the main living area and one in the bedroom offers flexibility and reduces the friction of constantly moving the crate around.
🧸 What to Put (and Not Put) in the Crate
Now that your crate is set up in the right spot and sized appropriately, let’s talk about what goes inside it—and what doesn’t.
A crate should feel like a calm, safe retreat… not a playground, not a bathroom, and definitely not a danger zone.
✅ What Not to Put in the Crate (At First)
If you’re crate training a young puppy (especially one who isn’t housebroken yet), less is more.
Skip the bedding if:
Your puppy is still having accidents
They like to shred, chew, or eat fabric
You’re unsure if they can be trusted alone with soft materials
Why? Puppies will often pee on bedding, then push it to the side and curl up in a clean corner. It works against housebreaking and becomes a safety risk if they chew or ingest it.
If your dog is still in the chewing phase, avoid towels, fleece, and plush items. Stick to flat, chew-resistant crate pads—or nothing at all.
👉 Favorite chew resistant crate pad
👉 Favorite chew resistant orthopedic crate pad
✅ What You Can Put in the Crate (Safely)
Crate-safe enrichment toys like Kongs (stuffed and frozen), Toppls, or safe, durable chews
A slow feeder bowl or puzzle feeder at mealtime
A crate mat or bedding once your puppy has shown they can be trusted with it
👉 Safe chew toy for unsupervised time
👉Kong toy for stuffing
👉Toppl for enrichment
👉 Don’t forget to check out our full blog: Best Enrichment Toys for Dogs
Trainer Tip: Keep toys simple and minimal when you’re not actively supervising. What’s “crate-safe” with you in the room may not be when you’re out of sight. Always observe how your puppy interacts with items before leaving them alone.
🥓 Make the Crate a Treasure Hunt
Instead of forcing your puppy into the crate, invite them to discover it.
Toss a treat or two inside the crate and let them choose to go in on their own
Scatter a few tiny treats or pieces of kibble inside when they’re not looking—it turns the crate into a magical “sniff and find” experience
Hide a lick mat or chew toy in there before a nap, and let them stumble upon it
These surprise rewards build curiosity and joy, making your puppy more likely to enter the crate willingly—and even look forward to it.
🍽️ Feed Meals in the Crate
Feeding your dog inside the crate is one of the easiest ways to create positive emotional ties. You can:
Use a regular bowl
Offer meals in a slow feeder or stuffed Kong
Occasionally scatter kibble across the crate floor to mix things up
This says, “Good things happen here.” Bonus: It creates natural crate time after meals when your puppy is sleepy and less likely to resist.
🛏️ Try a Crate Inside a Playpen Setup
If your puppy is still adjusting, a great option is placing the crate inside a playpen. After they’ve gone potty outside, you can:
Let them hang out in the playpen with some toys and water
Leave the crate door open so they can explore or nap in it at their own pace
Scatter treats in the crate for them to discover
Put soft bedding in the crate if you’re supervising and they aren’t chewing or soiling it
This gives your puppy the freedom to stretch their legs while still learning that the crate = cozy den.
🎁 Special Crate-Only Enrichment Toys
Want to make the crate extra special? Use crate-only enrichment—items your puppy only gets while inside:
Stuffed/frozen Kongs
West Paw Toppls
Long-lasting safe chews
Crate-safe plushies or chew bones
This builds excitement about being inside the crate, not just waiting to get out. Rotate the toys to keep things fresh.
👉 Check out our full blog on The Best Enrichment Toys for Dogs
💤 Time it Right: Crate After Calm Moments
For longer crate sessions, choose windows when your puppy is naturally calm—after a meal, a potty break, or a play session. A tired puppy is much more likely to settle in the crate without protest.
🚫 Avoid Crating When They're Hyped
Try not to begin crate sessions when your puppy is bouncing off the walls. If they’re overstimulated, anxious, or full of unspent energy, the crate can feel like frustration—not relaxation.
Steps to Introduce the Crate
Start Small — and Make It Random
In the beginning, practice short, low-stakes crate sessions throughout the day:
Sometimes your puppy goes in for 5 seconds
Sometimes for 5 minutes
Sometimes you stay in the room
Sometimes you step out or leave the house
Unpredictability is key—it teaches your dog that crate time doesn’t always mean “you’re leaving me.” Sometimes it just means a brief break, a chew toy moment, or a chill spot.
🚪 Calm In = Calm Out
Wait for a moment of quiet before opening the crate
If your dog lunges or rushes, gently close the door and try again
Mark and reward calm exits
Don’t make a big deal of letting them in or out—calm energy builds calm habits
Trainer Tip: Think of crate training like building a “room” your puppy loves. It should feel safe, full of good things, and free of pressure. If your pup isn’t there yet—that’s okay. Keep layering in those positive experiences, and it’ll happen naturally.
⏳ Gradually Increase Crate Time
Once your puppy is getting more comfortable with short sessions, you can begin building up the amount of time they spend in the crate—but go slow and pay attention to their comfort level.
Start by extending:
A 5-minute crate session to 10 minutes
Then 15… 20… and so on
Mix longer sessions with shorter ones to keep it unpredictable
💡 Don’t just “level up” every day. Stay at the same time range for a few days before increasing. Watch for signs of stress or whining—those are signals to pause and possibly dial it back.
🔄 Break the Pattern: Be Unpredictable to Prevent Anxiety
Dogs are incredible pattern-readers. That’s part of what makes them so trainable… but it also means they quickly start to associate your routines with long absences—especially if crate time always looks and sounds the same.
If every time you:
Put on your shoes
Grab your keys and bag
Walk to the garage
Start the car…
…your dog is left alone for hours, they’re going to start anticipating that pattern—and may develop signs of separation anxiety around it.
But the good news? We can short-circuit that anxiety by mixing it up on purpose.
🎭 Make Your Routine Weird on Purpose
Help your dog detach from routines by rehearsing your “leaving cues” in ways that don’t result in separation. For example:
Pick up your keys, walk around, then put them down and go sit on the couch
Put your shoes on, walk outside for 10 seconds, come right back in
Open the garage door, start the car, then shut it off and re-enter the house
Walk upstairs without saying a word, then come back down
Enter a room, close the door behind you, stay 30 seconds, then re-emerge calmly
These “fake outs” help desensitize your puppy to the build-up that usually results in crate + alone time, so they don’t spiral into panic every time you walk toward the door.
🧸 Don’t Let the Special Crate Toy Become a Red Flag
Many people offer special crate-only toys (like stuffed Kongs or Toppls)—which is great! But if that toy only ever shows up when you're gone for a long time, your dog may start associating it with stress.
🔄 Rotate your enrichment toys and use them:
For short crate sessions when you’re home
Randomly during the day, even if you’re not leaving
As a treat when your dog voluntarily enters the crate
Inside the crate, and occasionally in the playpen for variety
This way, the toy stays exciting and positive—not a signal that something hard is coming.
Trainer Tip: Think of this like “scrambling the signal.” If your puppy can’t predict what’s coming next, they’ll stop trying to brace for it—and start just being in the moment.
🔕 Ignore the Barking & Whining (Really)
One of the hardest parts of crate training is the noise.
That first time your puppy cries, whines, howls, or barks their heart out from inside the crate… it’s tough. Your instinct might say, “Oh no—they’re scared!” or “I need to comfort them.”
But if your puppy learns that **making noise gets your attention—or gets them out—**then you’ve accidentally trained them to keep doing it.
🧠 What Your Puppy Is Learning
Every single experience in the crate teaches your puppy something. If they cry and you immediately:
Talk to them
Walk over
Let them out
…they’ve just learned that barking = control. That if they make enough noise, someone will come save them.
And puppies are smart. They’ll keep using what works.
✅ Wait for Any Calm Before Letting Them Out
You don’t have to wait for total silence and a meditation pose. Just wait for:
1–2 seconds of quiet
A break in the barking
A calm sit or glance toward you
Then calmly open the door. Mark it (“yes!”), and release them. This helps reinforce:
“Calm = freedom. Barking = nothing changes.”
🚨 Exceptions to the Rule
There are times when your puppy may genuinely need to go potty or be in distress. So how do you know?
Ask yourself:
Did they just go potty before going in the crate?
Are they barking within minutes of going in, or hours later?
Is the barking escalating in panic, or cycling through attention-seeking?
If you're unsure and suspect they may need a bathroom break, take them quietly outside on leash—no play, no praise. If they go potty, great. If not, back into the crate calmly, no big deal.
🤐 Don’t “Shh,” Don’t “It’s Okay”—Just Wait
Talking through the crate bars, using baby talk, or trying to soothe your puppy mid-meltdown might feel like support—but to your dog, it's reinforcement.
You’re still engaging, still responding, and still feeding the behavior loop.
Instead, stay calm. Go about your business. Let the moment pass.
Trainer Tip: If your puppy has a true meltdown every time they’re crated, it’s a sign you need to slow down and go back a few steps—smaller durations, more enrichment, more positive associations.
🚪 Teaching “Wait” at the Crate Door
Your dog’s crate isn’t just a resting spot—it’s also a great opportunity to teach patience, impulse control, and polite exits.
When your puppy learns to wait calmly while you open the crate door, they stop seeing it as a launchpad to chaos—and start treating it like just another routine part of life.
🧘♀️ Why It Matters
It prevents your dog from bolting out the door, which can be unsafe (especially in busy homes or near stairs)
It teaches self-control, which carries over into other areas like front door manners and leash behavior
It helps your dog practice calmness during transitions—not just while inside the crate
📋 How to Teach It
Approach the crate calmly, with a treat ready
Begin to open the door slowly
If your dog tries to charge out, gently close the door
Wait a few seconds, then try again
Repeat until your dog holds still for just a second or two
Open the door fully, say “yes!” and toss a treat just outside the crate to reinforce the calm release
You’re not looking for perfection—you’re just teaching, “If I stay still, the door opens and good things happen.”
🔁 Keep It Consistent
The key to success with crate door manners is consistency:
Practice this “wait” game every time you open the crate
Keep your own energy neutral and relaxed
Use treats for reinforcement early on, then gradually fade them as your puppy gets the concept
💡 Special Note for Potty Time
If your puppy urgently needs to go to the bathroom, don’t worry about waiting at the door. Just open the crate and head straight outside. You can work on polite exits during less time-sensitive moments.
⏱️ How Long Can a Puppy Be in a Crate?
This is one of the most common questions I get—and for good reason. You want to set your puppy up for success without pushing their limits.
The truth is: it depends on their age, development, and crate experience.
📊 General Guideline (Not a Rule)
A common formula is:
👉 Puppy’s age in months + 1 = Max hours in crate
So:
8-week-old puppy = ~3 hours max
4-month-old puppy = ~5 hours
By 6 months, many pups can comfortably hold it for a typical work shift (with a break in between)
💡 Keep in mind: these are estimates, not guarantees. Some puppies will have stronger bladders earlier… others may need more time and support.
🌙 What About Overnight?
Most young puppies can’t hold it all night at first. Expect to do at least one middle-of-the-night potty trip for the first few weeks.
🕓 Example:
Set an alarm ~5 hours after bedtime
Quietly carry your puppy outside on leash
No talking, no playing—just potty
Back inside and into the crate without fuss
Gradually stretch this time out until they’re sleeping through the night. This should only really last for the first week or two, otherwise you may train the puppy’s bladder that it always has a bathroom opportunity in the middle of the night. Start gradually pushing this bathroom break later and later until you make it to an appropriate morning wake up (5-6AM for young puppies)
💼 Can I Crate My Dog While I’m at Work?
Though it’s not ideal, if your schedule requires full workdays away, it can be managed if needed.
✅ Tips for long work shifts:
Hire a midday dog walker or pet sitter to provide a potty break and stretch time
Use a puppy playpen with a crate inside, so they have a safe place to rest and move around with the sitter if they aren’t actively watching them
Make sure they get enrichment and exercise before and after the workday to prevent pent-up energy
Eventually older dogs who are able to hold their bladders longer can last a full work day without a sitter coming in for midday visits.
Dogs are adaptable. With the right support, many do well even with daytime crate stretches.
Trainer Tip: Crating your puppy during busy parts of your day (Zoom calls, school runs, errands) helps them get used to short, solo time—and builds tolerance gradually so you don’t have to jump straight into long absences.
🚧 What If You’re Using a Playpen or Gated Room Instead?
Not everyone wants to use a crate all day—and in some cases, a puppy playpen or gated-off room can be a helpful alternative. But here’s the key:
⚠️ This option is only appropriate for puppies or adult dogs who are already housebroken and not destructive.
If your dog is:
Chewing on baseboards or rugs
Peeing in corners
Climbing gates
Anxious when left alone in open spaces
…then a playpen or open room is too much freedom, too soon. Stick with a crate until they’ve proven they can handle more space responsibly.
If Your Dog Is Ready, Here’s How to Use It Right:
Use a sturdy exercise pen that your dog can’t tip or climb
Make sure the space is puppy-proofed (no wires, shoes, plants, or furniture they can chew)
Put the crate inside the pen, with the door open—this gives your dog the option to retreat and rest
Offer access only after a successful potty break outside
Add a safe chew or enrichment toy, and keep sessions short at first
Use the same calm-release rules as crate time—no whining = no freedom
👉 Favorite puppy pen
👉 Favorite baby gate
Avoid Using Large Rooms Too Soon
Even if your puppy seems mellow, don’t be tempted to give them free reign of the kitchen, laundry room, or living room just yet.
Too much space can lead to:
Accidents (they pick a far corner and you never notice)
Chewing or destructive habits
Anxiety without a clear “den” space to settle in
Think of it like toddler-proofing—freedom expands after the habits are solid.
Trainer Tip: Many owners transition too early to a pen or room and then get frustrated when accidents or destruction reappear. If that happens, it’s not a failure—it’s just feedback. Go back a step and rebuild the structure.
🧩 Troubleshooting Crate Issues
Even with the best setup and intentions, hiccups happen. Puppies are individuals, and just like toddlers, they each have their own learning curve.
Here’s how to troubleshoot the most common crate-training struggles:
😤 My Puppy Hates the Crate
If your puppy avoids the crate, cries, or resists going in:
Go back to positive association games: toss treats inside, scatter surprise snacks, or feed meals in the crate
Leave the door open when you’re home so they can explore it freely
Make it cozy with bedding (if safe), a crate cover, and soft lighting
Use crate-only enrichment (like a frozen Kong or Toppl) to make the crate feel exciting—not just restrictive
💡 Don’t force them in. Let the crate become a place they choose to explore and settle in.
🗣️ My Puppy Won’t Stop Barking or Whining
This is one of the hardest parts—but stay strong.
Ignore the noise unless you suspect a true potty need
Wait for a moment of quiet before opening the door
Avoid “soothing” talk or looking at them while barking—it reinforces the noise
Revisit shorter crate sessions with more rewards and less overwhelm
If barking escalates every time, take a few steps back in your training plan and rebuild slower.
💦 My Puppy Keeps Having Accidents in the Crate
Accidents happen—but if they’re frequent, check:
Is the crate too big?
Was your puppy empty before crating?
Are you waiting too long between potty breaks?
Did you add bedding too soon?
Puppies don’t “misbehave” with crate accidents—they just haven’t mastered the rhythm yet. Adjust your schedule and crate size before assuming the worst.
🧨 My Dog Escaped or Damaged the Crate
If your dog is trying to break out, chew the bars, or panic:
Try a different type of crate (plastic or heavy-duty)
Use a crate cover to reduce stimulation
Add more mental stimulation both while crated and before—boredom often fuels escape attempts. And a dog not having their physical needs met with exercise can become destructive in the crate. A tired dog is a good dog.
Reevaluate whether your dog is being crated too long or not getting enough fulfillment between sessions
👉 If your dog is showing signs of full-blown separation anxiety consider using a high quality, escape proof kennel.
Trainer Tip: Regression is normal. Training isn’t linear—and your puppy may hit roadblocks during teething, growth spurts, or life transitions. The best thing you can do is adjust with curiosity, not frustration.
💛 Final Thoughts: Crate Training Is a Journey, Not a Sprint
Crate training is one of the most valuable things you can teach your dog—but it’s also one of the most misunderstood.
Some days will go beautifully. Other days, you’ll wonder if your puppy will ever settle in the crate without a protest concert. That’s normal.
With consistency, compassion, and clear structure, crate training becomes more than just a tool—it becomes a way to build your dog’s independence, confidence, and trust in the world around them.
You’re doing more than teaching your dog to “hold it.”
You’re helping them regulate, rest, and feel safe being alone.
And that’s powerful.
🐾 Need More Support?
If you’re struggling with crate training, housebreaking, or separation anxiety, you don’t have to go it alone.
📌 Book a 1:1 virtual training session with our team and get personalized strategies tailored to your dog’s behavior, routine, and needs. We offer in-home and virtual sessions across the globe.
We will help you:
Decode what’s actually going wrong with crate or potty training
Rebuild a schedule and structure that works in real life
Create a step-by-step plan that brings calm back into your home
👉 Schedule your training session here
💬 Let’s Hear From You!
Have questions about crate training? Did a tip in this post help your dog settle in the crate for the first time?
💬 Drop a comment below and share your experience—I love hearing how things are going, and your story might help someone else, too!
About the Author
Jackie Audette is the founder and head trainer at Channeled Canine Coaching based out of Alpharetta, GA, and virtually servicing clients worldwide. She is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA) and a Certified Guide Dog Mobility Instructor (GDMI), with over a decade of experience working with pet dogs, service dogs, and complex behavior cases. Jackie holds a bachelors degree in Animal Science and specializes in modern, reward-based training that builds trust and real-life results.
About the Author
Jackie Audette is the founder and head trainer at Channeled Canine Coaching based out of Alpharetta, GA, and virtually servicing clients worldwide. She is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA) and a Certified Guide Dog Mobility Instructor (GDMI), with over a decade of experience working with pet dogs, service dogs, and complex behavior cases. Jackie holds a bachelors degree in Animal Science and specializes in modern, reward-based training that builds trust and real-life results.
