Puppy Biting & Nipping: How to Stop It Before It Becomes a Habit
Great Pyrenees Puppy gently mouths owner’s hand, showing bite inhabitation.
“Is This Just a Phase… or Is My Puppy Trying to Eat Me?”
Those tiny shark teeth weren’t in the brochure, were they?
If you’ve ever found yourself sprinting to the other room because your puppy turned into a land piranha — you’re not alone. Between the ankle biting, sleeve tugging, and surprise chomp when you’re just trying to sit down and drink your coffee, it’s easy to wonder: Is this normal? (Spoiler alert: It is.)
Mouthing and nipping are totally natural behaviors, especially for puppies under 6 months. But that doesn’t mean you have to just survive it — or sacrifice every sock, finger, and pant leg along the way.
As a professional dog trainer, I’ve helped hundreds of families navigate this stage (and survived it with my own dogs too). In this guide, we’ll break down exactly why your dog is mouthing, how to respond in ways that actually help, and what to avoid so you’re not accidentally making things worse.
Whether you’re dealing with a teething puppy, a zooming land-shark at 7pm, or an adult retriever who just has to grab something when you walk through the door — I’ve got you.
Let’s bite into it. (Figuratively.)
Understanding the Puppy Teething Timeline
Puppies don’t just wake up one day and decide to turn into adorable ankle biters — their mouths are going through a major transformation.
Here’s a quick breakdown of what’s going on:
3–4 weeks old: Baby teeth start coming in (usually already done before you bring them home).
12–16 weeks: Teething intensifies. Their gums are sore, their instincts to chew are strong, and everything becomes fair game — fingers, furniture, your hair…
4–6 months: Adult teeth start pushing out the baby teeth. This is the peak chaos stage.
6–7 months: Most adult teeth are in. You should start to see a gradual decrease in mouthiness (if you’ve been reinforcing the right behaviors).
Important note:
You may see a little progress and think you’re in the clear — only to wake up one day and feel like your puppy has completely regressed. Don’t panic. This often happens right when they start losing their baby teeth. That “worse before it gets better” moment? It’s totally normal and means the adult teeth are pushing through. Stay consistent — it will pass.
What this feels like for your puppy:
Imagine your gums are on fire, your body is growing by the minute, and your only real relief is sinking your teeth into the nearest available object. Chewing isn’t just a behavior — it’s survival-level soothing.
That’s why it’s so important to understand the why behind all this biting — and offer ways for them to channel that need appropriately.
Calming Teething Pain: Safe Chew Ideas
Your puppy needs to chew. Not wants to — needs to. It soothes their gums, helps those baby teeth wiggle loose, and gives them a productive outlet for all that growing energy. The trick is offering safe, satisfying options that won’t shred your hands or your home.
Here are some tried-and-true teething solutions:
🧊 Frozen Washcloth
Soak a clean washcloth in water or bone broth, twist it, and freeze it. It’s like a DIY teething ring. Super soothing on sore gums.
🥶 Chilled Carrots or Cucumber Slices
A frozen carrot or slice of cucumber is crunchy, cooling, and totally safe in moderation. Plus, many puppies love the texture.
🦴 Puppy Teething Rings and Toys
Soft rubber toys made specifically for teething puppies can be a game-changer. Look for gentle textures that massage the gums without being too hard.
My Top Picks
KONG Puppy Teething Toys– Soft, durable, and designed specifically for soothing sore puppy gums. Great for gentle chewers and can be frozen for extra relief.
👉 Puppy Binky
👉 Squeezz Dental Stick Toy
Nylabone Puppy Chew Toy Variety Packs – A mix of textures and shapes to keep your pup engaged. Helps redirect chewing and builds healthy habits.
👉 Puppy Chew Pack
👉 Dinosaur Puppy Chew
👉 X-Bone for Puppies
👉 Puppy Pacifier
👉 Sensory Ring
👉 Chicken Chew Pack
Benebone Puppy Dental Chew – Made with real flavor and puppy-safe material. The ridges help massage gums and support dental health.
👉 Benebone Puppy Chews
Freeze-able Cooling Teething options– Soak it in water and freeze it — the icy crunch soothes sore mouths and adds a fun sensory element.
👉 Petstages Cool Teething Stick
👉 Nylabone Freezer Bone
👉 Freezer Knuckle Bone
👉 Chill & Chew Toy
Edible Dental Chews – Soft but satisfying shaped chews, easy for little mouths to grip and gnaw. Great for crate time or quiet moments. Comes in a variety of flavors and is edible, so must be used under supervision when the pieces are chewed small enough where it can be swallowed.
👉 Edible Teething Rings
👉 Edible Teething Sticks
👉 Nylabone Edible Teething Bones
👉 Yogurt Chew Stick
🥄 Frozen Kibble Mash
Soak your puppy’s kibble in warm water or goat milk, mash it, and freeze it in a Kong or Toppl toy. This doubles as both a chew and a mental workout. Win-win.
👉 Kong Puppy Toy
👉 Toppl
👉 Check out our blog post on additional frozen enrichment recommendations
💡 Pro Tip:
Keep a few frozen options prepped and ready in the freezer so you’re not scrambling when your puppy starts chewing on the chair leg. Rotation keeps it fresh and exciting!
Why Bite Inhibition Matters (And How to Teach It)
Bite inhibition is a fancy way of saying your dog learns to control the pressure of their mouth. It’s one of the most important social skills a puppy can develop — and it can literally save lives.
Here’s why it matters:
All dogs have teeth. Even the sweetest pup may feel scared, startled, or overwhelmed one day. A dog with bite inhibition may give a warning nip or soft bite — but won’t cause serious harm. A dog without it might clamp down too hard, even if they didn’t mean to.
How dogs naturally learn this:
In healthy litters, puppies bite each other during play. When one pup bites too hard, the other yelps and stops playing. The fun ends, and the biter learns: “Ouch = game over.” This is how they begin to regulate their bite strength.
But when they come home to us?
We have to help finish the job. And we want to do it in a way that builds trust — not fear.
Here’s how to teach bite inhibition gently and effectively:
Redirect early and often.
Don’t wait for it to hurt — the moment your puppy mouths you, calmly grab a toy or chew and offer that instead. If they take the toy, praise gently. This teaches them what is okay to chew on.Use a marker, not a scream.
A high-pitched yelp can sometimes excite puppies more. Instead, use a calm but firm verbal marker like “Nope,” then withdraw attention briefly.Pause the fun — but don’t let them keep chewing on you.
If your pup bites too hard or repeatedly mouths you, the play session must stop immediately. Don’t just sit there while they keep chomping — physically remove yourself from reach or calmly place them in a brief time-out. The key is to interrupt the behavior and stop it from being rehearsed. Every time they successfully bite without consequence, it reinforces the habit. This will be discussed further later.Understand what’s normal at different ages.
For very young puppies (8–10 weeks), some gentle mouthing can be developmentally appropriate — it’s how they explore their world. But if the pressure becomes moderate or severe, the steps above must be followed. As they grow, shift to a zero-tolerance policy to avoid it becoming a long-term habit.Reward gentler play.
If your pup puts their mouth on you softly or licks instead, mark and reward! Reinforce that gentle mouths and calm energy keep the fun going.Don’t escalate the energy.
Avoid rough wrestling or waving your hands around like toys — it sends mixed signals and amps them up.
Redirection: What to Do Instead of “No”
Saying “no” over and over rarely works — especially with puppies who are teething, overstimulated, or just exploring their world. What does work? Giving them something better to do instead.
Think of redirection as replacing an inappropriate behavior with a positive one. You’re not just saying stop — you’re showing them what to do instead.
Why “No!” isn’t enough (and can backfire):
Many people instinctively react to biting with “No! Ouch! Stop!” in a high-pitched, frantic tone. But here’s the thing — dogs don’t speak English. They respond to tone, energy, and body language. And guess what that high-pitched voice often sounds like to a puppy?
Another puppy inviting play.
Your “No! Ouch! Stop!” sounds like, “Yip! Yip! Yip!” to our dogs. And to them this can mean “This is fun! Let’s go again!” in puppy-speak. So while you’re trying to stop the behavior, they’re hearing: “Challenge accepted. Let’s wrestle!”
That’s why calm, confident redirection works far better.
How to redirect mouthing effectively:
Have toys and chews always nearby.
Keep a few safe teething toys within arm’s reach. When your puppy starts mouthing your hand, calmly offer the toy instead. Praise them when they take it.Be quick and consistent.
The faster you redirect, the more clearly the puppy connects the dots. If they’re gnawing on your sock, guide them to a tug toy or frozen chew immediately.Move your body away.
If they’re in a mouthy frenzy and not responding to redirection, calmly step behind a gate or remove yourself from the room for 10–30 seconds. This shows them that biting = loss of attention.Don’t turn it into a tug-of-war.
If your puppy grabs your pant leg or sleeve, avoid pulling back. Instead, freeze or move toward them slightly to loosen their grip, then offer something better to grab.Reinforce calm moments.
When your puppy is lying quietly chewing an appropriate toy, acknowledge it! Calm praise or a dropped treat reinforces the behavior you want to see more of.Set the stage for a brief time-out if needed.
If your redirection efforts aren’t working and your puppy continues to mouth or bite, it’s okay to calmly remove them to a brief time-out — like a playpen, crate, or behind a baby gate — for 30 to 60 seconds. We’ll cover how to do this properly in an upcoming section.
When Puppies Bite Feet, Ankles, and Clothing
This one’s a classic. You’re walking across the room and suddenly — CHOMP. Your pant leg becomes a tug toy and your feet are under attack.
Why it happens:
Puppies are drawn to movement, and your feet are constantly moving targets.
Loose clothing, shoelaces, or baggy pants add extra fun to the game.
They may be overstimulated, overtired, or simply trying to get attention.
The mistake most people make? Tugging back, running away, or squealing, which accidentally turns this into the most exciting game ever.
What to do instead:
Freeze like a tree.
Stop moving completely. Don’t yank your leg away — it only makes it more fun.Redirect with purpose.
Toss a toy a few feet away or calmly guide them to a tug toy they can bite. Reward them for switching. If that does not work, take a high value treat and hold it to their nose to get their attention. Once you have their attention toss the treat further away from you so you can move away safely.Walk with purpose — and kibble.
One of my favorite strategies is to walk around the room dropping pieces of kibble at your side as you go. This teaches your puppy to stay close and focus downward — not grab your ankles.Use a baby gate or pen to reset with a time out.
They key is to end the fun and move behind the barrier, whether that is putting your puppy in their crate, or physically moving yourself behind a closed door. This will be discussed in detail later.
Pro tip:
Most puppies bite the most when they’re overtired. If you’re noticing a biting frenzy in the late afternoon or evening, it may be time for a nap — not a battle.
Creating a Calm Break (a.k.a. Puppy Time-Outs)
Sometimes, despite your best efforts, your puppy is simply too revved up to redirect. That’s where a calm, consistent break comes in.
What a time-out is (and isn’t):
It’s not a punishment.
It’s a reset — a chance for your puppy’s brain to settle and nervous system to regulate.
It’s not about “teaching them a lesson,” but removing access to fun and attention in that moment.
How to do it right:
Calmly guide your puppy to a safe, confined area like a crate or pen.
Don’t scold, lecture, or escalate. Just lead them in, close the door, and walk away.
Wait for at least a few seconds of quiet before letting them back out, so they don’t associate whining or barking with release.
First line of defense: Remove yourself.
If possible, you should leave the room instead of moving the puppy. Get up abruptly and step behind a baby gate, walk into the garage and close the door — whatever you can do to clearly communicate: teeth on skin = all fun stops. This strategy avoids reinforcing the behavior by touching or talking to them.
Second line of defense: Move the puppy.
If you can’t safely leave, calmly guide them to a crate or playpen. Stay silent and neutral. This isn't a punishment — it’s simply pressing pause so the biting doesn't get rehearsed.
Why this order matters: Touching the puppy to move them, or attaching a leash, still involves attention — which can be reinforcing. That’s why removing yourself is more powerful and our first line of defense. When the reward of your presence disappears, the behavior starts to lose its payoff.
Avoid triggering play responses.
Don’t stomp, yell, or flail. These movements (and sounds) can escalate the excitement and reinforce the behavior.
Management Matters: Tethering for Success
If you want your dog out and about but they’re still in a heavy biting phase, a leash tether is your secret weapon. Clip them to a sturdy piece of furniture so they can’t reach you if they start to get mouthy. This allows them to practice calm behavior while still being near you — without nipping your legs or anchoring themselves to your pant leg like a baby shark.
Tethering is especially helpful when you:
Can’t leave the room
Are working or cooking and can’t redirect instantly
Want to avoid overusing the crate or pen
Be Proactive With Enrichment
If you know there are certain “witching hour” times when your puppy gets mouthy, set them up with a frozen enrichment toy before the wildness begins.
It channels energy into something productive
Keeps their mouth busy
Helps regulate their nervous system
These are great tools to offer after potty breaks, before guests arrive, or during that late afternoon energy surge.
👉 Check out my full blog on Enrichment Toys for Dogs
Here are 3 of my favorite frozen enrichment tools:
When It’s a Sign of Overarousal or Fatigue
Sometimes, biting isn’t a sign of bad behavior — it’s a signal your puppy is just too tired or overstimulated to function.
Much like a toddler melting down before naptime, an overtired puppy might go from playful to wild in seconds: zoomies, barking, biting, tugging on your clothes… sound familiar?
Watch for these common signs:
Sudden increase in biting intensity
Ignoring redirection
Getting zoomies or barking excessively
Snapping at hands or tugging on clothes out of nowhere
What to do:
Use your management tools: tether, baby gate, crate, or playpen to give your puppy space to decompress.
Offer a frozen enrichment toy as a calming alternative.
Avoid hyping them up during these moments — this isn’t the time to try and “train through it.”
Let them sleep it off. Puppies need 18–20 hours of sleep a day! A nap often solves the problem.
This isn’t the moment to teach — it’s the moment to intervene early, provide a calm outlet, and prioritize rest.
Nipping is Often a Symptom of a Bigger Imbalance
When a puppy is biting a lot, it’s rarely just a discipline issue — it’s a signal. Nipping can be a sign that something else is out of balance in their daily rhythm.
Ask yourself:
Are they getting enough quality sleep? (Puppies need 18–20 hours a day!)
Are they overtired from too much activity without downtime?
Have they had enough physical exercise or purposeful play?
Have they had any mental stimulation today? (Training games, food puzzles, sniffing games, etc.)
Are they getting too much freedom too soon?
Are you reacting emotionally to the biting? (Which may feel like attention and become reinforcing)
You’ll often see a dramatic improvement in mouthing behaviors when you meet your puppy’s core needs before they get to the point of using their mouth to ask for help. It’s not just about discipline — it’s about balance.
Consistency Within the Household Matters More Than You Think
Puppies thrive on clarity — and nothing creates confusion faster than mixed messages from the humans in the home.
If one family member calmly redirects biting, another allows rough play, and a third yells “No!” but still lets the puppy keep chewing… your puppy doesn’t know what the rule is.
It’s not about being perfect — it’s about being consistent.
If you don’t want your puppy nipping at clothes or skin, no one should allow it (even if they think it’s “cute”).
If you’re redirecting with toys or using time-outs, everyone should follow that plan.
Set boundaries with children and guests. Puppies don’t need to “get used to it” — they need safety and structure.
When your expectations are unified, your results come faster. Your puppy will feel safer, and the biting will start to fade.
Teach Cues That Are Incompatible With Nipping
One of the most overlooked strategies in reducing mouthing is teaching your puppy what to do instead. When we give them a clear job, we set them up to succeed — and reduce the likelihood of unwanted behaviors like nipping.
Two of my favorite cues for this are:
👉 “Touch” (hand target) – This simple cue teaches your dog to boop their nose to your hand. It’s fun, easy to teach, and gives their mouth a job that doesn’t involve your skin. It’s also a great redirection cue when they’re about to get too worked up.
Read more in my full blog on teaching Touch here
👉 “Place” (go to a bed or mat and stay there) – If your puppy gets especially mouthy when guests arrive or energy spikes in the home, teaching them to go to a specific spot can prevent a meltdown. Instead of jumping and nipping, they have a relaxing place to settle.
Learn how to use this strategy in my Place blog here
These cues aren’t just about obedience — they’re about helping your puppy regulate their excitement and build better default behaviors.
Excited Mouthing in Older Dogs (Like Goldens Who Grab Arms)
Not all mouthing is aggressive — in fact, some dogs use their mouth as a love language.
Retrievers especially are known for their instinct to carry something in their mouths. When they’re excited, it’s not uncommon for them to grab your arm, tug on your sleeve, or snatch the nearest shoe to parade around with.
While endearing to some, this habit can become frustrating or unsafe if left unmanaged.
How to redirect with intention:
Have a designated toy ready. When you walk in the door, immediately offer a stuffed toy or tug. Make it a routine: "Here, hold this!"
Use a cue like “get your toy!” and reward them when they grab it instead of your arm.
Don’t scold affectionately. Even “No, you silly!” with a giggle can reinforce the behavior. Keep your tone neutral and redirect.
Be consistent. Everyone in the home should follow the same rule — no rewarding mouthing, even if it’s cute.
This behavior doesn’t need to be harshly corrected — it just needs a clear, consistent alternative that satisfies the same impulse in a safer way.
What Not to Do — Debunking Common Myths
When those tiny shark teeth start flying, it’s tempting to reach for quick fixes — but some of the most common advice out there can actually make things worse. Let’s clear the air:
Don’t: Push their gums into their teeth
This outdated method can damage trust and create a negative association with hands near the mouth. It doesn’t teach bite inhibition — it just teaches fear.
Don’t: Yell “No!” or “Ouch!” in a high-pitched voice
It may feel instinctual to say “No no no!” when your puppy chomps down — but to them, that high-pitched sound can mimic a puppy saying “Yip! Yip! Play with me!”
They don’t understand English, but your tone, energy, and pitch say more than you think. It can sound like an invitation for more rough play.
Don’t: Pull away and flail your arms or legs
Puppies love chase games. If you jerk your hand away or run when they bite, it triggers their natural prey drive. You’ve just become the world’s most fun tug toy.
Don’t: Encourage rough mouth play
Letting them regularly bite your hands or clothes, especially past 10–12 weeks, builds a habit that becomes much harder to break later. Even if it feels harmless now, you’re laying the groundwork for future frustration.
Don’t: Be inconsistent within the family
If one person sets firm boundaries, but another encourages rough play — your puppy gets confused. Mixed signals slow down training and lead to inconsistent results.
Make sure everyone in the home follows the same rules. Supervise kids closely and teach them how to calmly redirect rather than react. Your dog is learning from every interaction — even the ones you’re not part of.
✨ Final Thoughts: You’re Not Failing — You’re Raising a Baby Predator
Puppy nipping can feel overwhelming, frustrating, and even discouraging — especially when those tiny teeth leave marks on your skin (and your patience). But remember: your puppy isn’t trying to be “bad.” They’re doing what puppies do when they’re overstimulated, teething, or seeking connection.
The good news? With the right strategies — consistency, redirection, proactive management, and clear communication — this phase truly does pass.
If you’ve been feeling like nothing is working, take a deep breath. You’re not alone. So many dog parents hit this exact point and wonder if they’re cut out for this.
But here’s the truth: if you’ve made it this far, reading this blog and seeking new solutions, you’re already doing better than you think.
Your calm, patient leadership will pay off — one redirect, time-out, and frozen teether at a time.
🐾 Need More Help with Your Nippy Puppy?
If you’re feeling stuck or overwhelmed, we’d love to support you. We offer one-on-one training sessions — both in-person and virtual — to help you troubleshoot nipping, build better routines, and bring more calm into your home.
Whether you're just starting out or need a reset, we got your back.
Book a session with me here: www.channeledcaninecoaching.com/contact
💬 Share Your Puppy Experience!
We would love to hear from you — seriously!
What’s been the toughest part of puppy biting for you? What strategies have worked (or totally flopped)?
Drop a comment below and let’s support each other through the bitey chaos.
About the Author
Jackie Audette is the founder and head trainer at Channeled Canine Coaching based out of Alpharetta, GA, and virtually servicing clients worldwide. She is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA) and a Certified Guide Dog Mobility Instructor (GDMI), with over a decade of experience working with pet dogs, service dogs, and complex behavior cases. Jackie holds a bachelors degree in Animal Science and specializes in modern, reward-based training that builds trust and real-life results.
