How to Teach “Leave It”: Mastering Impulse Control in Real-Life Situations
A chocolate lab sits near a table displaying impulse control, while looking at a roasted chicken and assorted fruits & veggies.
Why “Leave It” Is More Than a Trick — It’s a Lifeline
“Leave it” is one of the most important cues you can teach your dog — not just to prevent them from grabbing socks or snacks, but to help them build impulse control, trust, and real-world decision-making. It’s a behavior that teaches your dog: you don’t have to chase every impulse — you can pause and look to me instead.
Unlike cues like “Sit” or “Down,” which often lead to physical stillness, “Leave it” is about cognitive stillness. It asks your dog to interrupt their instinctive reaction, and instead, make a conscious choice to disengage from temptation.
From a toddler’s dropped cracker to a medication pill on the floor — this cue can prevent accidents, create teachable moments, and give you time to intervene before your dog acts on impulse.
💡 What “Leave It” Actually Means
Let’s get something straight:
“Leave it” does not mean your dog will never look at the item again. It means:
Pause the current behavior
Look to your human for guidance
Trust that something better is coming
It’s not a rigid command — it’s a pattern interrupt that creates space for redirection, reinforcement, and management.
“Leave it” buys you time — so you can step in and help your dog make a better choice.
Real-Life Example: The Toy on the Floor
A child drops a toy on the floor. You see your dog moving toward it.
You say “Leave it!” from across the room — your dog pauses, and you immediately:
Praise and reward them
Redirect them to their place with a chew
Pick up the toy to remove the temptation
That’s the formula. Leave it → Interruption → Redirection → Success
What You’ll Learn in This Guide
This step-by-step training guide will teach you how to:
Introduce “leave it” using food and hand signals
Layer in duration, distance, and distraction
Move from controlled practice to real-world scenarios
Understand the difference between “Leave it” and “Wait”
Set your dog up for success using smart management and redirection
Troubleshoot when your dog isn’t responding
Whether you’re raising a curious puppy or retraining a seasoned scavenger, this guide will help you build a clear, confident “leave it” cue that works in real life.
🥓 Step 1: Teaching “Leave It” with a Closed Fist
We begin teaching “leave it” in a simple, controlled context: with a treat in your closed hand. This builds the first layer of impulse control — teaching your dog that ignoring the treat is actually what earns the reward.
Heads up: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase something I’ve shared, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). I only recommend tools and products I personally use or love. Read my full disclaimer here.
🔧 What You’ll Need:
Setting your dog up for success starts with having the right tools (and treats!) on hand:
Two Types of Treats (High & Low Value):
Moderate to High-Value: Use something soft, smelly, and motivating. Our favorites are:
👉Pet Botanics Training Treats
👉 Zuke’s Mini Naturals
Low-Value: Choose something more everyday or crunchy — such as your dog’s kibble or a dry crunchy treat.
👉 Our favorite low value treat
💡 Want help choosing the right rewards for your dog’s training level and focus?
👉 Check out our Training Treats Guide here
Quiet, Low-Distraction Environment:
Start in a calm, familiar space where your dog can think clearly and stay focused.
Clicker or Marker Word (“Yes!”):
Use whichever you’ve already introduced. If you're using a clicker, just replace each “Yes!” with a clean click instead of saying “yes!”
👉Check out our favorite clicker here
📌 Trainer Tip:
Use a high-value treat your dog really wants but doesn’t get often — this makes it easier for them to ignore the low-value “leave it” treat and stay engaged with you.
🐶 Instructions:
Sit or kneel in front of your dog. Hold a treat in your closed fist and place it just a few inches from your dog’s nose.
Let them sniff, lick, or paw at your hand. Don’t say anything yet — just stay still and observe.
The moment your dog pulls their head away, pauses, or looks at you, mark it with “Yes!” and immediately deliver a reward from your opposite hand (not the one they were sniffing).
Repeat this exercise 5–10 times per session. Over time, your dog will stop going after the treat and instead choose to disengage and look to you for the reward.
🧠 Why This Works:
The treat they’re leaving is not the treat they earn — this breaks the “grab it to get it” pattern. We do not want to think they can ever get the leave it treat. Think of it this way — we do not want our dogs to pause leaving a dropped pill on the floor, only to suddenly lunge for it a few seconds later. To prevent this incorrect behavior from forming, we must lay the foundation clearly from the beginning.
You’re not saying “No” or correcting — you’re waiting for your dog to choose self-control and then heavily reinforcing it.
This teaches your dog that ignoring temptation leads to reward.
🔁 If Your Dog Gets Stuck:
If they keep going after the treat, freeze your hand like a rock — don’t flinch, pull away, or scold.
As soon as they stop engaging, even for a split second, mark and reward.
You can also try using a less exciting treat in your hand and rewarding with a higher-value treat to help clarify the lesson.
📦 Trainer Favorite: Magnetic Treat Pouch for Fast Reward Delivery
In impulse control training, timing is everything. If you’re fumbling for treats, you’re likely missing those critical, rewardable moments when your dog makes the right choice.
A magnetic treat pouch — like the Ruffwear Treat Pouch — allows you to deliver reinforcers swiftly and smoothly, especially during that split-second when your dog chooses to disengage from temptation.
👉 Shop the Ruffwear Treat Pouch here
📏 Pro Tip: Use a Lightweight Drag Leash
During early “leave it” sessions, a light drag leash gives you a safe, gentle way to manage your dog without needing to grab their collar or break the rhythm of training. It’s especially helpful if your dog lunges toward the item or needs redirection without tension.
👉 Explore recommended drag leashes here
👋 Step 2: Presenting the Leave-It Treat With an Open Palm
Now that your dog can leave a treat in your hand while seated close to you, we’re going to increase the difficulty by making the reward visible. This creates visual temptation — while still keeping you in full control.
🐶 Instructions:
Start with one hand holding reward treats, and the other hand holding a “leave it” treat.
Hide both hands behind your back.
Step a few feet away from your dog and bring the “leave it” hand out next to you, holding the treat higher than the dog’s head, but not directly above it. Your open hand should be next to your body, a few feet in front of your dog. We want the hand placement to be different, but not difficult.
Watch closely. If your dog lunges or moves toward the treat, swiftly move your hand out of reach or tuck it behind your back. Then calmly reset and try again, making the presentation easier by moving your hand higher or with further distance away.
If your dog looks at the treat but does not lunge, mark with “Yes!”, remove your leave-it hand behind your back, and reward from your opposite hand.
Repeat until your dog can consistently see the treat, pause, and look to you — even when it’s held overhead at a distance.
🪜 Progression: Lowering the Hand Over Time
Once your dog is succeeding with the elevated presentation:
Start lowering the treat-hand gradually over multiple reps:
From above their head
To eye-level
To chest height
Eventually close to the floor
Any time your dog lunges, reset by tucking the treat behind your back and trying again at an easier level.
When you finally reach ground-level, present the treat a few feet away from your dog — and hover closely to grab it if needed.
As always, reward your dog from your other hand after they disengage.
🧠 Why This Works:
The treat becomes more accessible over time, but your dog learns that ignoring it is the fastest way to get rewarded.
By covering and removing the treat after success, you prevent your dog from rehearsing mistakes or self-rewarding.
This mimics real-life impulse triggers — and builds muscle memory for stopping, not lunging.
📦 Trainer Note: At this stage, avoid putting the “leave it” treat fully on the ground unless your dog has succeeded through all the intermediate steps. Ground-level access is a major jump in difficulty and should only happen when your dog is confident.
📌 Pro Tip: Always remove the “leave it” treat before rewarding — this removes temptation and reinforces the right choice.
⏳ Step 3: Add Duration & Close the Gap
Now that your dog understands “leave it” means to disengage from a visible treat — even when it’s gradually lowered toward the floor — it’s time to ask them to hold that pause for longer and stay calm as you move closer to the item. This introduces delayed gratification and teaches your dog that staying patient is even more rewarding than quick action.
🐶 Instructions:
Begin with a successful version of Step 2 — present the “leave it” treat low or close to the floor.
Hold it there for 1–2 seconds, then mark with “Yes!” and reward from your other hand.Repeat the same rep, but this time wait 3–4 seconds before marking and rewarding — as long as your dog doesn’t lunge or shift toward the treat.
If your dog maintains focus, you can begin moving your treat hand closer to them during the pause.
If at any point they break their stillness or lunge, remove the treat calmly, reset, and go back to a shorter duration or greater distance.
🪜 Progression Options:
As your dog succeeds, layer in the following:
Increase duration slowly (1–2 seconds → 3–4 → 5–6+)
Decrease distance between the treat and your dog
Change your position: instead of standing still, try walking up to your dog with the treat in hand
Switch hands or hold the treat behind your back, then re-present
🧠 Why This Works:
It teaches your dog that holding the choice (not just making it once) leads to more rewards.
The increased proximity of the treat tests and strengthens their emotional control.
Your movement introduces dynamic distraction, helping your dog succeed even when life isn’t still.
📌 Trainer Tip:
If your dog starts to creep forward or shift their weight toward the treat, that’s a sign the challenge is too high. Go back to a shorter duration or more distance — the goal is clean, confident reps, not stress.
📦 Suggested Tools to Set Up “Leave It” Success
Strategic setup can make or break your training session. Creating clear boundaries and preventing accidental snatching will help your dog stay focused — and help you stay calm.
Use a Visual Boundary
Placing a folded towel or training mat between your dog and the treat helps define their space and gives them a clear "stay behind this line" visual cue.
👉 Try this low-profile training mat
Tether for Safety + Structure
To prevent your dog from lunging and self-rewarding, consider tethering them to a heavy piece of furniture during practice. It allows for clean repetitions and gives you time to mark and reward without scrambling to block them.
Trainer Favorites:
Chew-proof tether — durable and safe for indoor setups
European-style leash — versatile and can be clipped around furniture or worn hands-free
👉 Shop our favorite chew-proof tether
👉 Explore the best multi-use Euro leash here
⤵️ Step 4: Placing the Treat on the Floor
Once your dog can calmly leave a treat you’re holding low to the ground, it’s time to place the treat directly on the floor — but only when your dog is ready. This step is one of the biggest challenges in impulse control work, so move slowly, stay consistent, and protect your dog’s success.
🐶 Instructions:
Start by saying “leave it”
Then begin by placing the “leave it” treat on the floor at a distance from your dog (3–4 feet away is ideal to start).
As soon as you place the treat, hover over it with your hand or foot so you can snatch it up or cover it quickly if needed.
Wait for your dog to notice the treat but choose not to approach. For the first few reps, the moment the treat touches the ground, immediately say “yes” and reward as long as they did not advance towards it.
Pick the “leave it” treat up off the ground immediately before delivering your reward. This removes the temptation and helps your dog succeed.
Repeat until your dog consistently disengages from the floor-level treat.
🪜 Progressions:
Once your dog can successfully leave a covered treat:
Start uncovering it briefly, then re-cover it — reward for any disengagement
Gradually increase exposure time before covering again
Eventually leave the treat fully uncovered, but continue hovering nearby for safety
Practice placing the treat at closer distances only once they are confidently disengaging
Practice standing up taller, creating distance between you and the leave it treat, gradually over time.
🧠 Why This Works:
Floor-level treats represent real-world temptation (like food dropped on a walk or during dinner prep)
Hovering helps prevent your dog from rehearsing failure by snatching the treat quickly — and builds trust in the learning environment
Picking up the treat before rewarding reinforces that the dog never gets the “leave it” item — only the reward for ignoring it
📌 Trainer Tip: If your dog makes a mistake, calmly remove the treat and try again from a greater distance or with your hand closer. This is a test of emotional regulation, not obedience. Go slow, keep reps clean, and end on a success.
🏠 Step 5: Introduce Real-World “Leave It” Scenarios
Once your dog can consistently leave food in your hand or near the floor with duration and distance, it’s time to apply the skill to real-life items — toys, paper towels, socks, or even motion-based distractions like tossed treats.
This teaches your dog that “leave it” doesn’t just apply to training time — it applies to anything in the environment you don’t want them to interact with.
🐶 Instructions:
Choose a real-world item your dog is curious about (but not overly obsessed with). This could be:
A toy
A sock
A tissue or paper towel
A dog-safe food item in a wrapper
Place the item on the floor a few feet away from your dog.
Stand near it and keep reward treats in your hand (out of sight) or pocket.As your dog notices the item and begins to approach, say “Leave it!” in a calm but firm tone.
If your dog immediately disengages or looks at you, mark and reward generously.
If your dog ignores the cue or moves closer, calmly step between them and the item, use your body to block access, and reset the rep with an easier version (closer to you, with more control).
🧠 Why This Works:
“Leave it” becomes contextual — not just food in training, but anything you don’t want them to grab.
Practicing with different objects builds generalization — the dog learns that “leave it” applies to categories of things, not just a specific moment.
Movement-based items (like toys being tossed) add a layer of excitement control.
🪜 Real-Life Progressions:
Practice while walking: Drop a treat or toy in your path and cue “Leave it” as you pass. Reward with praise or food when your dog keeps walking.
Add temptation layering: Place a treat on the floor and then drop a sock or toy next to it — work through both types of impulse together.
Practice in different rooms or environments to help your dog generalize.
📌 Trainer Tip: Don’t just test your dog — set them up for success. If you're unsure how they'll respond, start with low-stakes items and stay nearby to intervene gently.
🎯 Step 6: “Leave It” with Movement-Based Temptations (Tossed Treats, Rolling Toys)
Once your dog can reliably ignore food and objects on the floor — even in real-world contexts — the final test is teaching them to resist motion. This is one of the hardest challenges in impulse control, because fast-moving items activate prey and chase drive, reactivity, or playful instinct.
But with the strong foundation you’ve built, your dog is ready.
🐶 Instructions:
Start with your dog on leash or in a controlled space.
Hold a treat in one hand and say “Leave it” as you gently toss the treat a few feet away.
If your dog pauses, looks at you, or stays still, mark with “Yes!” and reward immediately from your other hand.
If your dog lunges, calmly block them with the leash or your body — no correction needed. Pick up the tossed item and reset.
Make the next attempt easier. Repeat a more gentle toss or subtle drop, gradually building distance, speed, and variety of movement.
🧠 Why This Works:
This step teaches your dog that movement doesn’t mean permission.
It strengthens their ability to stop and redirect focus when instincts kick in.
It mirrors real-world moments — like a sandwich being dropped, a squirrel dashing by, or a kid throwing a toy.
🪜 Progressions:
Vary the direction and speed of the toss
Use different items (treats, toys, tissue, etc.)
Practice both indoors and outside
Build toward tossing an item behind you or past your dog’s face
📌 Reminder: Always reward with a different item than the one they’re leaving — even in this advanced stage, the principle remains: leave the temptation, earn the reward elsewhere.
📦 Helpful Tools for Real-World “Leave It” Practice
When you're working through high-stakes impulse control in motion — like dropped food or sidewalk scavenging — the right equipment can make a world of difference. Here are some of our favorite tools to keep training safe, smooth, and frustration-free:
🔗 Sturdy Leash + Well-Fitted Harness
Essential for safely guiding your dog away from temptation without yanking or creating tension. Choose a leash with a comfortable grip and a harness that helps prevent pulling.
👉 Check out our favorite no-pull training harness
👉 View our favorite versatile leash
🔗 Martingale Collar (for Escape Artists)
If your dog tends to back out of their collar or scavenge unpredictably for items on the ground, a martingale collar offers control without the risk of slipping loose. It tightens slightly without allowing the head to filly slip through — perfect for walk-time impulse control.
👉 See our recommended martingale collars here
🔗 Head Collar (for Strong Pullers & Floor Scavengers)
For dogs who are strong like to dive for crumbs, a head collar can give you precise control over their head movement — something a standard harness doesn’t offer. It's especially helpful for preventing ground-snatching impulsive behavior on walks.
⚠️ Note: Head collars should be introduced slowly and positively. We recommend pairing them with treats and short, calm sessions.
👉 Explore our top head collar pick here
🕵️♀️ Step 7: Surprise Training — Practice “Leave It” in Real Life
Once your dog is succeeding in controlled setups, it’s time to test their understanding in a more realistic, unscripted environment — where they don’t know it’s a training session.
This builds fluency, confidence, and most importantly: real-world decision-making.
🐶 Instructions:
Set the scene:
Place a few tempting (but safe) items around the room — such as socks, tissues, or a treat in a wrapper.
Keep your dog out of the room during setup.Clip a drag line or long leash to your dog before inviting them in. This gives you gentle control without tension.
Watch quietly as your dog enters:
Do they notice the planted items?
Do they pause, sniff, or look to you without going for them?
If they make a good choice (looking but not lunging):
Casually mark with “Yes!” and reward them like it was totally spontaneous. 🎉
If they make a not-so-great choice:
Calmly say “Leave it.” If they back off, mark and reward.
If they persist, gently step on their leash to block access, then reset the scene or go back a few steps.
🧠 Why This Works:
It keeps your dog thinking for themselves, not just responding to setup cues.
Surprising them with a reward reinforces the idea that you’re always watching — and good choices pay off.
It mimics real life — where you won’t always say “Leave it” in time.
📌 Trainer Tip: Try running a few of these "stealth tests" each week — when your dog least expects it. Keep sessions short, fun, and unpredictable.
🚧 Real Talk: Management Is Key
Even with solid training, your dog is still... a dog. And no matter how good their “Leave it” is, they shouldn’t be left to manage every temptation on their own — especially during their learning phase.
Until Your Dog is Reliable, Use Smart Management:
These tools will help you smoothly transition from structured training to real-world practice — and protect your dog (and your sanity) while you're still reinforcing the behavior.
Drag Leash or Long Line
Perfect for surprise training sessions and indoor impulse work. A lightweight drag line lets you gently step in without grabbing your dog or startling them — ideal for staged “leave it” tests and casual redirection.
👉 Shop our favorite indoor drag leashes here
👉 Explore reliable long lines for distance
👉 Our favorite outdoor water proof long line
Crate + Puppy Pen for Safe Containment
When you can’t supervise directly, a crate or playpen offers your dog a safe, structured space. This prevents self-rewarding while giving you peace of mind.
👉 Recommended crates for home & travel
👉 Best puppy pens for daily management
🚪 Baby Gates + Visual Boundaries
Use baby gates to block off tempting zones like kitchens or laundry rooms. Add a towel or mat as a visual "stay out" marker near objects your dog is learning to ignore.
👉 Best-rated baby gates for dog-proofing
🎒 Hands-Free or Tether Leash
Tether your dog to yourself or furniture during the day to monitor choices and reinforce “leave it” organically. A European-style leash or waist clip setup makes it easy to supervise while multitasking.
👉 Our favorite hands-freedog leash belt
👉 Multi-use Euro leash with dual clips to attach to the belt
🔁 Practice Makes Predictable
“Leave it” is like a muscle — the more reps you give it, the stronger it gets. Management prevents your dog from rehearsing the wrong behavior, while giving you more chances to catch and reinforce the right ones.
✅ Final Recap: Teaching a Reliable “Leave It” Cue
“Leave it” is one of the most important cues in your dog’s behavioral vocabulary — not just because it prevents chaos, but because it builds trust and calmness. Whether your dog is ignoring a tempting snack or choosing to disengage from a squirrel mid-walk, a strong “leave it” creates safety and mutual respect.
🔁 Training Progression Recap:
Start with a treat in your hand — reward for disengagement
Present the treat from a distance and gradually lower it toward the floor
Add duration and proximity to build patience
Place the treat on the floor (covered to uncovered) while preventing mistakes
Apply “leave it” to real-life objects like socks, wrappers, toys, or trash
Add in motion-based impulse work — tossed treats, rolling toys, fast movement
Finish with real-life staged scenarios to generalize
When you reinforce your dog’s decision to pause, you empower them to make better choices — not just follow commands.
📚 Keep Learning:
Ready to reinforce “leave it” with more real-world skills? Try these next:
🧘♀️ How to Teach “Down” — foundational for calm, resting behavior
🛋️ Teaching “Place” — create an impulse-free zone for your dog to settle
🚫 Jumping 101 — stop bounce-based impulse at the door
🧠 Dog Enrichment Toys — give your dog an outlet when you say “not now”
🐾 Need Support with Impulse Control?
Struggling with reactivity, distractions, or boundary setting? We offer 1-on-1 support to help you and your dog create calm through clarity.
👉 Book a private session or learn more at Channeled Canine Coaching
Let’s turn “leave it” into one of your most reliable, life-saving cues — built on trust, not tension.
💬 Let’s Chat:
What has your dog learned to leave behind?
What do they still struggle with?
Any funny stories from training this cue?
👇 Drop a comment — we’d love to hear your dog’s wins, questions, and progress!
About the Author
Jackie Audette is the founder and head trainer at Channeled Canine Coaching based out of Alpharetta, GA, and virtually servicing clients worldwide. She is a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA) and a Certified Guide Dog Mobility Instructor (GDMI), with over a decade of experience working with pet dogs, service dogs, and complex behavior cases. Jackie holds a bachelors degree in Animal Science and specializes in modern, reward-based training that builds trust and real-life results.
